Water Pump Replacement in a Chrysler 2. L Engine Memory Leak. I recently helped my sister in law by replacing the leaking water pump in her 1. Dodge Intrepid with the 2. L engine. Its a terribly designed engine in that when the water pump shaft seal goes as they are prone to do, the leak dumps coolant into the crankcase and fouls the oil. Chrysler seams to think that a simple weep hole is sufficient to catch any leakage and dump it outside, but, Ive read too many stories about that being inadequate. BTW the weep hole location is on the left side of the engine block, near the front, about half way up the block. Its easiest to locate when looking from underneath the car. The following is not meant to be a complete step by step on how to do the job. I intend it to be informational with things that I learned along the way that might help others. I would not attempt this without some kind of service manuals. I have omitted many important details that are covered in a service manual like torque procedures. Images/ProductModelImages/ph_3946.jpg' alt='Chrysler Intrepid Repair Manual' title='Chrysler Intrepid Repair Manual' />The Chrysler LHS is a fullsize luxury fourdoor sedan that was produced by Chrysler for the 1994 through the 2001 model years, with a oneyear hiatus for 1998. If nothing else, after reading this you should get a good sense for the amount of work involved and why a mechanic is going to charge you north of 5. Tools that you absolutely must have that might not be in the average tool box 1. DO NOT use a socket ratchet Set of Torx bits for the coil over plug removalTorque wrench duhRecommend, but, I managed without them Chain style locking pliers to hold crankshaft pulley when removinginstalling crankshaft pulley bolt. Crankshaft pulley installer. Enough lead in, lets get started with the tear down Remove the intake Plenum Disconnect all wires and hoses to the plenum, including the EGR tube. Disconnect the throttle cables. Unbolt and remove the plenum with the throttle body attached. Stuff rags into the intake ports to prevent anything from getting dropped in. Use a couple of zip ties to hold the wire bundles over the center of the engine. Remove the valve covers Remove the coil over plug assemblies. I used a sharpened putty knife to carefully slip between the head and the cover to loosen it enough to pop it free without damaging the cover gasket. The cover gaskets are rubberized and reusable if care is taken. Remove the cross member above the radiator. Drain the cooling system and remove the upper radiator hose. Chrysler Intrepid Repair Manual' title='Chrysler Intrepid Repair Manual' />The J Body Chrysler Lebaron Coupe and Convertible debuted in 1987, filling the spot left by the cancellation of the Chrysler Laser and the Reliantbased Lebaron sedan. TEXTBOOK KUBOTA B7610 MANUAL PDF EBOOKS 450f 1967 19 workshop service manual nissan frontier model d22 series service repair manual 1998. Contact Chrysler Customer Service. Find Chrysler Customer Support, Phone Number, Email Address, Customer Care Returns Fax, 800 Number, Chat and Chrysler FAQ. Speak. Auto Parts and Truck Part for Car and Automotive parts. I recently helped my sisterinlaw by replacing the leaking water pump in her 1998 Dodge Intrepid with the 2. L engine. Its a terribly designed engine in that when. Earlier this week, we heard about an unfortunate accident where somebody crashed into a guys brand new 2017 Honda Civic Type R while he was on his way home from. You dont need to run around in search of repair parts for your Chrysler. Youll find everything you need for a successful repair right here on our digital shelves. Just because your car is old doesnt mean its outdated. It Still Runs is your ultimate auto resource, whether you rotate your tires or change your oil. The 2006 Chrysler 300C has 28 complaints for complete engine failure. Average repair cost is 6,943. Remove the fan assembly. Remove the drive belts. Remove the power steering pump Theres no need to disconnect any hoses or drain the system. It simply has to be pulled aside. Take note that there are only 3 bolts holding the pump in place and ALL of them are accessible with a socket wrench through the holes in the pump pulley. If you are struggling to get at one of the bolts, most likely the bolt is holding only the bracket and not the pump. The farthest inside bolt has a spacer that is pressed through the bracket and against the pump. This spacer needs to be pried away from the pump in order to free the pump enough to remove it from the bracket. Now that the pump is out of the way, all the power steering pump idler bracket bolts are a cinch to get at. Remove the bracket. Remove the bolt in the crankshaft holding the main pulley in place. If you dont have a proper tool to hold the pulley, you can manage by using the tab at the bottom of the timing chain cover as a prop for a screwdriver through the pulley spoke. Remove the crankshaft pulley using a 3 jaw puller. Remove the timing chain cover. Remove the spark plugs to ease rotating the crankshaft. Rotate the crankshaft around until colored links of the timing chain are oriented with the respective sprockets as shown in the photos below. Additionally, align the crankshaft position with the arrow on the crank case its actually the oil pump housing on the left side of the engine. I found the dark colored links to be very difficult to see. Also note that if the timing marks do not line up, keep spinning the engine around and eventually, they will. Or, the lazy way is to simply count that each sprocket is offset by the same number of teeth and the same direction to confirm that youve properly identified the alignment links. Note that the crank position does not look correct in this picture partly due to the camera angle, and partly because it really is off by a little bitWith everything in alignment, remove the timing chain tensioner. Take note of the extension of the timing chain tensioner before removing it. This will be useful for gauging the wear of the cam chain later. Remove all the timing chain guides. Cisco Autonomous To Lightweight Mode Upgrade Tool Release 3.0. Note that this requires removing the large plugs in the front of the heads using a 1. I did not have one and my local hardware store was conveniently out of stock when I needed it, so, I made one from a long coupling nut as shown on the right. The coupling nut was 12 wrench size with a little work on the grinder reduce it down to make it 1. MM. No sir, Im not too proud to admit any of thisRemove the cam shaft sprockets. Be warned I had a problem with the cams not staying in the exact location once freed of the chain. Use caution when removing the bolts since the cams may spring violently once the sprocket bolts are removed ask me why I know about this Use a 38 breaker bar that has a non ratchet head so you can ease the spring pressure in either direction after removing the cam sprocket bolts. Do NOT hold the cam shaft with a standard 38 ratchet since it can only apply torque in one direction Remove the cam chain enough to clear the water pump. Finally, the water pump can be removed. Once I got it free, I found that the gasket was disintegrating. The rubber material was literally crumbling into pieces upon removal. Arielle was very lucky that the gasket had not started leaking coolant into the crankcase. I urge you to drain the oil at this point since, undoubtedly, coolant dribbled down into the oil pan upon removing the water pump. Inspection. Take a close look at the wear on the cam chain guides. Arielles engine had been replaced and we dont know how many miles it has on it. The deepest wear on the worst cam chain guide was only 0. We decided not to replace the guides. Next came the cam chain itself. The tensioner was roughly 34 extended with tension on the chain. The tensioner extends 1. Since it had over half of the travel remaining, we decided to keep the old cam chain in service as well. Installation. Even after reading the procedure in the manual, one of the most confusing things to do was to reset the cam chain tensioner before installing it. Theres a special tool that might help you with this, but it is not really required. The trick is to release the check valve ball while compressing the tensioner so that the trapped oil can escape. I used a tiny allen wrench to apply a small amount of pressure on the ball while firmly applying compression to the tensioner body. Its moderately tricky and you are not done until the tensioner wants to spring back on its own after being released from compression see Updates. If it does not do this, the problem is most assuredly because it has yet to be compressed enough to fully drain the oil out. This is confusing because once all the oil is removed, it will actually click into a fully compressed state and not spring back. However after applying compression again, it should then spring back into the extended position. Id be wary of using a vise for compression due to the difficult in gauging the force applied it can easily be done by hand. Present Factory Dodge Auto Repair Manuals. Keywords dodge, Dart, Viper, Neon, Stratus, Charger, Aries, Challenger, Omni, Mirada, sebring, dodge, repair, manual, factory, service, avenger, shop, manual, intrepid, concord, LHS, 3. 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